Uganda is Africa condensed, with the best of everything the continent has to offer packed into one small but stunning destination. Uganda is home to the highest mountain range in Africa, the Mountains of the Moon in the Rwenzori National Park. It is the source of the mighty Nile, and around Jinja offers the best white-water rafting in the world. It has the highest concentration of primates on earth, including the majestic mountain gorilla, one of the rarest animals on the planet. Head to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park for a chance to get close to these great apes.

On top of all this, the scenery is so striking that it looks like an oil painting, the beautiful national parks see far fewer visitors than in neighbouring Kenya and Tanzania, and the capital, Kampala, is safer and friendlier than most in Africa. In 1907 pioneering tourist Winston Churchill called it the ‘Pearl of Africa’. He was right.

Mention Uganda to most people today and the first thing they’ll think of is the brutality of Idi Amin. Their naivety is their loss as, thankfully for Uganda, the big man died in exile in 2003. The reality is vastly different. Stability has returned to most parts of the country and tourists are welcomed with open arms. Despite the trials and tribulations of the past, Ugandans have weathered the storm remarkably well. The people offer heart-warming hospitality up and down the country, their ever-present smile accompanied by ‘Hello Mzungu!’. They are truly some of the finest folk on the continent.

Take the plunge now, before the world wakes up to this magical microcosm of Africa.

Getting there & away

By Land

The two main border crossings that most overland travellers use are between Tororo in Uganda and Malaba in Kenya, and Busia in Uganda and Kisumu in Kenya.

Akamba (250412; 28 Dewinton Rd, Kampala), Busscar (233030; 8 Burton St, Kampala), Regional Coach (041-256862; 4 Luwum St, Kampala) and Scandinavian Express (348895; 8 Colville St) bus companies run direct services between Kampala and Nairobi (Kenya) every day. The cost ranges from USh23, 000 to USh50, 000 (depending on the level of luxury), and the trip takes from 12 to 14 hours.

To do the journey in stages, catch a minibus taxi from Kampala to Malaba (USh9000, three hours), via Jinja and close to Tororo. From Malaba, there are plenty of matatus (minibus transport) to Eldoret or Nairobi. There are moneychangers on both sides of the border.

The less frequently used entry point into Kenya is via Busia. Take a minibus taxi from Jinja to Busia (USh6000, two hours). From the Kenyan side of the border, matatus frequently travel to Kisumu.

Rwanda
The main crossing point is between Kabale and Kigali (Rwanda) via Katuna (Uganda) and Gatuna (Rwanda). There’s a second crossing between Kisoro (Uganda) and Ruhengeri (Rwanda) via Cyanika in Rwanda.

Those travelling direct between Kampala and Kigali can travel with Jaguar Executive Coaches , Regional Coach (041-256862; 4 Luwum St, Kampala) or Gaso Bus (041-572917; Bus Park) Prices start from USh20, 000, most buses leave between 7am and 9am and the journey takes about nine hours. Gaso departs at 2am and continues to Bujumbura.

From Kabale to Kigali there are lots of minibuses, but the journey involves a change of vehicle at the border. There are minibuses (USh1000) and special hire taxis (USh15, 000, 30 minutes) to Katuna. On the Rwandan side, there are regular minibuses to Kigali (RFr1500, 1½ hours).

From Kisoro to Ruhengeri via Cyanika, regular minibuses link either side of the border with Kisoro (USh1000, 12km) and Ruhengeri (RFr500, 25km).

Tanzania
The route into Tanzania follows the western side of Lake Victoria from Masaka to Bukoba, and it’s possible to travel this distance in less than one day. From Masaka, take a taxi (minibus) to Kyotera (USh3000, one hour), and then a pick-up to the border at Mutukula (USh3000, one hour). From the Tanzanian border, take a pick-up to Bukoba.

There used to be passenger services on Lake Victoria between Port Bell (near Kampala) and Mwanza (Tanzania) via Bukoba (Tanzania), but they were discontinued several years ago. Some travellers have managed to book passage to Mwanza (about USh20, 000, 16 hours) on cargo ferries run by Tanzania Railways (041-233384).

By Air

Located on the shores of Lake Victoria about 40km south of the capital, Entebbe International Airport (EBB) is the international gateway to Kampala and Uganda. Entebbe International offers direct connections to Nairobi, Kigali, Dar es Salaam, Addis Ababa, Khartoum, Cairo, Johannesburg, Dubai, London, Amsterdam and Brussels.

Airlines based in Kampala (area code 041) flying to/from Uganda:

Air Burundi (airline code 8Y; 256137)

Air Tanzania (airline code TC; 345773; www.airtanzania.com)

British Airways (airline code BA; 257414; www.britishairways.com)

EgyptAir (airline code MS; 233960; www.egyptair.com.eg)

Emirates (airline code EK; 349941; www.emirates.com)

Ethiopian Airlines (airline code ET; 254796; www.flyethiopian.com)

Gulf Air (airline code GF; 230524; www.gulfairco.com)

Kenya Airways (airline code KQ; 344304; www.kenya-airways.com)

KLM (airline code KL; 344304; www.klm.com)

Rwandair Express (airline code WB; 232555; www.rwandair.com)

SN Brussels Airline (airline code SN; 234200; www.brusselsairlines.com)

South African Airways (airline code SA; 345772; www.flysaa.com)

Sudan Airways (airline code SD; 230438; www.sudanair.com)